Osaka’s Tenjin Festival

Held on July 24th and 25th of every year, the Tenjin Matsuri is Osaka’s pride and joy. It’s regarded as one of the three greatest festivals of Japan, and approximately 1.3 million people attend every year. It really does live up to its reputation firstly in size, then in history and – perhaps the most apparent – its immensely joyous, festive atmosphere.

Boasting a long standing tradition that dates back to as far as a thousand years ago, the Tenjin Matsuri is held at the Osaka Tenmangu Shrine with stalls and booths stretching across Temmabashi Station and all towards Minami-Morimachi Station, even into the famous Tenjinbashi-suji Shoutengai – the longest shopping arcade in Japan. 

The festival itself is dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane, who is deified as the god of learning and art, Tenman Tenjin. It is no surprise that the festival, in turn, is filled with different parades of song and dance – from a march of children playing traditional drums and flutes to the thunderous thrum of the taiko played by people on boats along the river.

Out of the first exit of Temmabashi Station, immediately lanterns decorate the street, guiding visitors to the other side of the Temmabashi Bridge – the heart of the festivities. Stalls lining the road, down by the riverbank, a warm orange glow wafts about as the people behind prepare street food for the patrons. Given the sheer size and location of this festival, staples such as takoyaki, okonomiyaki, and the likes aren’t the only things available – a wide range of food and drinks from different backgrounds are also present. A little poking around further down the streets would find you unexpected things like spicy chicken pasta in a cup, or even tacos!

Torches lining the riverbank, in clear view from the seating area tent, bring an air of steel resolve – merry and strong-willed, traits that are so quintessentially Osaka itself. The seating area provides the prime spot for people-watching – in the midst of bustling booths and an interweaving sea of people, under a shower of lights from the lanterns above and the torches outside, immersed in crowd chatters, the rhythmic drumbeats, and children’s laughter as they try their luck at the numerous game booths scattered about – all while nursing a serving (or two!) of your favourite street food.

At the height of the festivities, stands the two hour long fireworks display at the Sakuranomiya Bridge. Held on the last day, it is a spectacular end to a similarly spectacular experience during the festival proper. The Sakuranomiya Bridge usually serves as part of the Keihan National Highway, but just for the occasion, the road is closed off to allow visitors onto the bridge for the fireworks viewing. Launched from both sides of the bridge, the whistling anticipation, the shower of illumination surrounds you, mesmerises you. Along with fellow festival goers, wide-eyed in awe, a cascade of light like flowers burst across the stretch of the night sky as people cheer with innocent, childlike excitement.